La Superior

 This past weekend I stopped into La Superior in Williamsburg  for a quick and delicious taco.

We shared a carne asada , a shrimp and a mushroom taco.  Tacos are 2.50 each. They are on the small side so they make a quick snack. We sat on the bench outside, ate our tacos  and drank watermelon juice. Simple living.

 

  All Photographs Copyright © 2011 Andrea Gentl all rights reserved 

LA SUPERIOR
295 BERRY STREET WILLIAMSBURG BROOKLYN

strawberry shortcake

 

   All Photographs Copyright © 2011 Andrea Gentl all rights reserved

 

Well, someone in my house is feeling better! The magic of medicine can lift a 14 year old from the depths of despair, sick with strep only to be inspired by a photo of strawberry shortcake on the back of a box of bisquick.

The appetite has returned.

Though I pleaded with her to use Alice Waters Cream Biscuit recipe from the Art of Simple Food (my favorite) she refused. She was completely and utterly swayed by the power of advertising. So it is, that she stands in the kitchen cutting up strawberries and humming quietly to herself. 

Tomorrow is another day and I can fight the cream biscuit battle then.

For a more grown up version of a shortcake biscuit, see Alice Waters recipie below.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees

Stir together in a large bowl.

1 1/4 cups all purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon of salt

4 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

Add

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) cold butter

cut into small pieces

Cut the butter into the flour with your fingers or a small pastry blender until they are the size of small peas. Measure:

3/4 cup heavy cream

Remove 1 tablespoon and set aside. Lightly stir in the remainder of the cream with fork until the mixture just comes together. Without overworking it, lightly knead the dough a couple of times in the bowl, turn it out onto a lightly floured board, and roll out about 3/4 inch thick. Cut into eight 1 1/2 inch circles or squares. Rerolll the scraps if necessary.

Place the biscuits on a baking sheet lined with parchement paper and lightly brush the tops with the reserved tablespoon of cream. Bake for 17 minutes or until cooked through and golden.

waiting for pippin

 

 Summer has arrived with a lush and verdant boom. Though I won't be going Upstate this weekend as I am waiting on my dear friend's baby to arrive, I will be feeling Summer in the City nonetheless. There will be round two of the Smorgasburg, a birthday for Io in McCarren Park, The Far Rockaways for a bite to eat and whatever else the weekend dreams up... Dinner at Roman's, a Sandwich at Saltie, a backyard barbeque and a baby perhaps? Rolling in the grass upstate will have to wait a little longer, while the city gets some love.

  All Photographs Copyright © 2011 Andrea Gentl all rights reserved

Da Nerbone at The Mercato Centrale/ Florence

Copyright © 2011 Andrea Gentl all rights reserved

 

See this man's face? Remember it. Don't forget it! He is the man you will  want to find when you are Florence, for he will hand over one of the most delicious sandwiches you will ever eat!!!

When I went for a semester in Siena, Italy many years ago, one of my favorite things to do was to take the bus early Saturday mornings from Siena to Florence to The Mercato Centrale (the great food hall), located in the center of the Mercato San Lorenzo near the Basilica San Lorenzo. It was at this market that I ate my very first panino bollito. Last Summer, I found myself standing in front of  Da Nerbone, a small unassuming food stall, there since the 1800's, once again! Da Nerbone is inside the Mercato Centrale tucked into a corner on the outer ring of the market. It is popular with both locals and in the know tourists. During the week it can be quite crowded with the lunch time working crowd. Go early, for the panino bollito con salsa verde (a boiled beef sandwich with a green herb sauce) on a crusty Italian roll.  though popular at lunch, I think it is the  perfect breakfast sandwich. Take some time to wander through the market, have a sandwich, wander some more  then come back to Nerbone for lunch. You can't go wrong with a plate of pasta and a glass of local Tuscan wine. You might have to stand in line for a bit as it is very popular, but have faith! If they are out of the beef as sometimes does happen quickly, they will offer up their other specialty, lampredotto a tripe sandwich.

The Mercato Centrale was designed in the mid 1800's by Giuseppe Mengoni, a famous Italian architect. Mengoni used a beautiful design of cast iron and glass to create this gorgeous landmark market. He based his design on the grand market halls of Paris, Les Halles. The Mercato opened in 1874 soon after an older market was torn down.The building still stands today, much as it was when it was built. Stalls on the first floor sell meat, fish, cheese and pasta as well as some prepared foods and food made to order. Vegetables are sold on the upper floor where you can see the gorgeous vaulted  glass ceiling. If you have never been to one of these amazing European food halls you must go! You will find everything from rabbits to wild boar (cingale) to locally harvested mushrooms and the tiniest most flavorful Fragola di Bosco'!(tiny Alpine strawberries) Buy! don't touch or the Italian fruit vendors especially the ladies will get quite cross with you! If you are patient and kind they will most likely give you a taste.

While doing a little research on the market I came across another bloggers ruminations and admiration for the Market and for the very same sandwich at Nerbone. Samin Nosrat is a chef, teacher, writer, and from what I can tell a gastronmic dervish, liviing and working in San Francisco. She came up through the ranks from bussing tables to cooking in the kitchen at Chez Panisse, where she trained before moving to Italy to work with butcher Dario Cecchini and chef  Benedetta Vitali. Samin was somewhat obsessed with finding and eating the panino bollito from Nerbone as soon as she set foot in the magical city of Florence. Another chef at Chez Panisse had been somewhat obsessed with it as well and told her she must try it upon her arriaval. In her post for the  Food Section where she guest curated an entire week of posts on Florence, she talks about that experience. I think her post is worth sharing as she has many great personal recommendations for vendors at the market that she got to know quite well while living there. See her post below and check out her blog at www.ciaosamin.com.

If you are lucky enough to live in SanFrancisco, you can take one of her home ec classes such as a hand pulled mozzarella or fresh pasta . Samin is the co founder of Oakland's Pop-Up General Store  along with former boss Chris Lee of Eccollo  and if that isn't enough... she partners with Tartine Bakery for the dinners Tartine Afterhours.  Tartine Afterhours is a  three course family style dinner occurring  once a month or so at Tartine Bakery  for the way economical price of 35 dollars.

I am more than a little sad that she does not live in NYC!

Check out her full week of posts on Florenece!

 Nerbone 

Stall #292, 1st Floor, Mercato Centrale (Central Market), entrance on Via dell'Ariento, Florence, Italy +39 (055) 219-949

Samin was kind enough to  supply me with a recipe of her version of the famous Nerbone sandwich!

thank you Samin!

 

Panino Bollito al Nerbone

Serves 6-8

3-4 pounds beef brisket, trimmed of major fat

Salt

Pepper

1 onion, peeled and halved

1 carrot, peeled

2 ribs celery, chopped finely, plus 1 whole rib celery

1 bunch parsley, picked and finely chopped

Extra virgin olive oil

2 shallots, peeled and finely diced

Red wine vinegar

1/2 cup pickled red chilies, such as these Calabrian peppers

6-8 Crusty round buns (in a pinch, seedless Kaiser rolls will do)

The day before you plan to cook the brisket, season it generously with salt and pepper.

The next day, place the brisket in a large pot, cover with cold water, add the onion, carrot, and celery rib and bring to a boil.  Add a healthy pinch of salt to the water for good luck.  If the brisket floats to the top and is exposed, place a plate on it to submerge it.  Reduce the heat and keep the water at a simmer.  Cook until the brisket is knife tender, about 3.5 hours.  

In the meantime, make the sauces.  In a small bowl, cover the diced shallot with red wine vinegar.  Let it macerate for at least 30 minutes.

In a medium bowl, combine the finely chopped parsley and celery with enough olive oil to make an unctuous sauce.  Season with salt.  

For the chile sauce, you can either chop the peppers by hand or whizz everything in a blender or food processor.  Mince the peppers however you like, then mix them in a separate bowl with a generous amount of olive oil, a splash of red wine vinegar, and season with salt.

When the brisket is cooked, remove it from the cooking liquid and slice the meat thinly against the grain.  

Slice the buns in half.  Finish the salsa verde by combining the shallots and red wine vinegar with the parsley oil.  Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.  

Skim any fat from the cooking juices, then lightly dip the inside of the bottom bun in the bollito broth.  Assemble the sandwich with sliced meat and each of the two sauces.  

Serve immediately.  

 

:: samin nosrat ::

writer, cook & teacher 

notes from the road/sicily

 Photographer and Hungry Ghost contributor, Paola Ambrosi DeMagistris writes in from her travels in Sicily... 

On our day of location scouting we ended in San Vito Lo Capo (Trapani) named this year cleanest beach in Italy and very close to the natural park "Riserva Naturale Dello Zingaro".  San Vito is famous for its cous cous festival, http://www.couscousfest.it/ held June 2-5. I treated myself to a taste of "Cozze al Pomodoro" (mussels in tomato sauce) and an amazing "cous cous di pesce" (fish cous cous).

On our last day before departure I spent a few hours at the "Mercato di Sant'Agata" in Catania, famous for its fish section where you can still find sicilian fishermen selling the catch of the day as well as the freshest fruit and veggies...

The previous night I had the pleasure to eat at "Osteria l'Antica Marina" http://www.anticamarina.it/it/index.html right by the market where the most amazing variety of fish antipasti are served in small bowls quickly passed through the hands of the diners..."panzotti con ricotta al nero di seppia" is one of their pasta speciality as well as the "linguine ai ricci" and I had the luck to taste both! If you ever are in Catania make your palate happy and make sure you have the time to stop for lunch or dinner! BUON APPETITO!